What engines are available for the NB?

As of 1 January 1999, the NB is available in GL and GLS trims with a 2.0L, 4-cylinder 115 horsepower gasoline engine and in GLS with a 1.9L 90 hp 4-cylinder Turbo Direct Injection diesel engine. The top of the line GLX trim package should include an option for a 1.8L turbocharged 150 hp 4-cylinder gas engine in the first quarter of 1999.

Although some automotive magazines have featured customized NBs with VW's V6 engine, there are no plans for a factory V6 New Beetle.

Why doesn't VW sell a NB with the V6?

A lot of speculation has gone back and forth about why VW has decided not to introduce a V6 NB, especially since the aftermarket tuners have shown that the V6 will fit with minor modifications. Most believe that there just isn't a need for a V6 NB: the 1.8T that will be introduced soon can already be tuned to the limits of the NB's design.

According to Beetle Buzz, the 1.8T is already too powerful to be sold in Germany, where the autobahn affords more opportunity for top speed driving than we enjoy in North America:

After conducting high-speed tests in Germany, VW has nixed plans to offer a 1.8T-powered Bug in Europe due to the car's lack of stability at speeds over 200 km/h. VW will instead put their VR5 engine — essentially a VR6 with a cylinder lopped off — in the New Beetle. The VR5 produces the same 150 horses as the 1.8T but offers much smaller increases in horsepower for the buck.

What are "silent recalls"?

Volkswagen has identified a number of problems with early production New Beetles that need to be addressed, but are not of such urgency that they need to issue an active recall. "Silent recalls" are performed during the scheduled warranty services, and address a number of issues such as warping dash panels. The following list is of silent recalls through the spring of 1999:

BZ vin# 3VW_B61C_WM000320 to WM0245505

Reposition the oil cooler hose.

BY vin# the same as above

The anti theft system could become inoperative if the vehicle is started with the secondary non insulated key. If the alarm system becomes inoperative the car will not start.

BX vin# same as above

The wiring for the side air bags is not fastened down correctly.

BV vin# WM000001 to WM021074

Under hot conditions the dashboard plenum panel cover material can loosen and bubble due to the softening of the adhesive.

Where can I find the NB technical bulletins online?

Carousel Motors has posted a web page with a dozen of VW's internal technical bulletins in PDF format:

Technical Bulletin Archive

The bulletins cover a range of topics from lock programming and mudflap installation to faulty glow plug relays and musty odors in the vents.

Why should I consider a TDI?

Because the engineering of the TDI is as cool as the design of the New Beetle? Because the idea of 50+ MPG on the highway has a certain appeal, as does 700 miles on one tank of fuel?

Many people carry preconceived notions about the "problems" of running a diesel car: they are slow, difficult to start, smelly, produce lots of black soot and smoke, that the soot coats the car with grime, the engines are too loud, or that diesel fuel is too difficult to find/too expensive.

Older style diesels experienced most of these problems and were driven off the passenger car market. By 1998, only Mercedes and VW were selling diesel cars in the US. While US auto makers have given up on diesel (except in their big trucks, where the turbo diesel is making a comeback), diesel rules in the rest of the world. The new generation of diesel engines don't have any of the problems associated with the older engines.

The VW TDI might only have 90 hp, but it has higher torque than the 2.0 L gas engine. As a result, it is as quick (or quicker) to get going from a stop. The engine is louder than the 2.0, but not as loud as an old air-cooled VW. To me, it sounds like a 2.0 with a tuned exhaust. The injected diesel doesn't produce the smell, smoke, or soot of the old engines. My own TDI is yellow, and I have not noticed any black around the area of the exhaust.

As per instructions from VW, the TDI is to be driven just like a gas car. You don't have to wait for the glow plug to start the car unless you are in freezing conditions. The fuel system is heated, so with a minimum of attention you shouldn't need to worry about the fuel gelling in cold weather. A recent survey shows that diesel is available at one in four gas stations, so locating diesel shouldn't be a problem. Diesel prices do vary quite a bit-- along interstate highways it can be cheaper than regular gas, while in-town I've seen it cost as much as premium.

How should I prepare a TDI's fuel for cold weather use?

Unlike other diesel engines, the TDI should be run (more or less) like a gasoline engine. Although Diesel #2, AKA the recommended fuel) will gel in freezing conditions ( +10°F), the TDI heats the fuel pump assembly enough to allow a constant flow of fuel to the engine. Winterized diesel has a small amount of kerosene premixed with the #2 to prevent gelling. The winterized mix should be safe in your TDI, although you might find the engine running rough and fuel efficiency reduced.

The question of how to prepare one's own fuel for freezing weather rages on diesel engine mailing lists whenever an arctic cold front sweeps across North America. Most people agree that gas should never be mixed with diesel. The "old fashioned" fix was to add a gallon or two of kerosene to tank of diesel, although some diesel engineers claim that long-term use of high kerosene mixes will degrade seals and gaskets. If you are concerned about your fuel gelling, at least try to top off your tank with winterized fuel from a truck stop that services trucks heading into cold weather. Top off your tank if your vehicle will be sitting long enough to get cold. A full tank of fuel will be less likely to accumulate moisture (introduction of ice/water to the fuel system is another cold weather problem), and full tanks help the fuel pumps move fuel through the fuel lines.

You can also add a diesel fuel supplement, such as Power Service Diesel Fuel Supplement or Stanadyne. Such supplements not only help prevent gelling, but they can fight against prevent problems from both water content and bacterial contamination in the fuel. Remember that your TDI does not require any supplements to function at its best.

Winter supplements, also known as pour-point depressants, alone will not solve all cold weather diesel problems. According to diesel engine manufacturer Cummins, (most) "pour point depressants are not cure-alls as they will not reduce the cloud point nor are they effective when added to fuel at or below the cloud point. A survey of winter blend fuels by the Bureau of Mines (now a part of the Energy Research and Development Administration) revealed that a large percentage of the commercially marketed No. 2-D diesel fuels had been treated with a pour point depressant. Before purchasing such an additive to treat fuel, ask the fuel supplier whether the fuel already contains an additive. If the fuel is already treated, additional additives will not be very effective."

If your TDI won't start due to freezing conditions, have it towed to a heated garage. Never use ether to try to start your TDI engine.

Can I install a classic "meep meep" horn?

Vintage Hella 12 volt horns, part #113 951 113A can be purchased for $10.95 ea. from Mid-America Designs 1-800-LUV-BUGG (588-2844).

Mitch Perry offers these instructions for installation:

I now have a Meep-Meep horn. It would be simple for a Shade Tree mechanic, this was the first time I have worked on a car, since '82. I printed the 2 previous posts I found with the digest search engine, and with part number in hand, called NAPA. They did not stock it, but directed me to NOPI, who specializes in import parts. A half hour drive round trip plus $15, and I had a new/old horn.

Al Borlen approach: Tools required: 1-12mm socket, with 9 inch extension. Supplies - silicon, 2-6 inch pieces of wire, with a one male fitting, and female fitting on each. electrical tape, 67 VW horn p/n 111-951-113-A, (got mine at NIPO auto parts)

Time - 10 minutes

If you can get the car up on something, where you have better clearance, this would really help.

1. Remove horns with 12 mm socket, located below front left light, in front of wheel, accessed from bottom.
2. Detach the electrical by pushing, then pulling, and tape one connector back out of the way (won't be used).
3. Attach both 6 inch pieces of wire to the other connector, male end, and the female end to the new horn. (these are 1/4 (I think, but they were the only size Home Depot carried of this type). The male is flat, like a spatula, and the female is flat, but the sides are curled up, so the male slides in it.)
4. Silicone all connections and the unused connector.
5. Attach new horn with 12 mm socket. (You may need to use the old bracket from the socket horns, or get out the hammer & chisel, if your new one came with a pre-attached nut).

Should I change my oil before 5K? Should I change it every 3K afterwards?

Few topics engender as many heated debates among car enthusiasts as the arguments surrounding when to change oil. The VW New Beetle manual states that the oil should be changed at 5000 miles, then at every 10000 miles. Many US drivers are very uncomfortable with the idea of not changing the oil every 3000 miles. As Mike Suave points out, 3K oil changes were common in the '50s, when metallurgy and oil technology weren't nearly as advanced as today - so what have those advances gotten us, if not longer oil change intervals? VW has to stand behind their 10 year/100K powertrain warranty, and they are not about to give out bad advice on how to maximize engine life.

The oil should not be changed before the first 5K service. VW uses a special "break-in" oil, and it needs (at least) the 5000 miles to properly seat the rings. In Europe, VW delays the first change until over 10000 miles; while they briefly suggested a 7500 mile first change in the US in the mid 1990s, the policy apparently didn't meet the approval of the typical US consumer accustomed to the 3K oil change ritual. A more complete account of VW's European oil change recommendations can be found on the GTI Club's mail archive.

My "check engine light" always stays on...

AKA, the curse of the TDI and the dread check engine light disorder. The run of 1998 TDIs were stuck with faulty glow plug relays. The glow plug is used to heat a cylinder for a few seconds before the engine is cranked. Cars with the faulty relay experienced some cold weather starting problems. It is possible that your car will run fine, but the relay will cause the CEL to stay on. Take the car in to have the relay replaced as soon as possible.

I've experienced two other problems relating to the CEL. The first time it stayed on, I didn't experience any performance problems, but the service tech discovered that a vacuum hose was loose. The second time, a faulty fuse in the the brake system was telling the computer that I was driving with the brake and acceleration pedals pressed at the same time. Although the CEL appears to have a hair trigger, it does catch small problems before they have a chance to become big problems.

Why does the "cold" light come on when I first start the car?

You must have skipped that part of the manual: in cold weather, the blue "cold engine" light will stay on until the engine temperature is warm enough for normal use. Avoid running the engine hard while the blue light is still on.

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Information provided in this Frequently Asked Questions list has been gathered off of the newbug mailing list [Now located at topica.com] All questions and answers are copyleft to the individual authors noted in the text; the FAQ can be reproduced in electronic form in whole or part for noncommercial purposes as long as it retains a link back to this original source and it carries this notice. The New Beetle FAQ cannot be reproduced in whole or part for commercial use without written consent of the FAQ organizer.

Caveat lector. Always consult your New Beetle owner's manual and/or your Volkswagen service representative for authoritative advice on the care and feeding of your NB.